Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks) to Greymouth to Ross

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Since I had a short 50km ride planned for the day, I did a short 4km hike along the Pororari River track in Punakaiki in the morning. I felt like I was in Laos with the limestone cliffs and tropical looking palms and ferns. 

Back on the bike, the ride from Punakaiki to Greymouth was nice and easy, again with gorgeous scenery. Chilly but sunny.

In Greymouth I arrived in the afternoon, checked into a backpackers place and craved a cup of (real) coffee (not the free dissolving powder coffee provided by the backpackers places). Went to The Gap café down the road and the coffee there hit the spot. The man working behind the counter was super cool and asked all about my trip. As I headed out (to go to the local aquatic center to relax in the Jacuzzi and sauna mind you…haha! I think my body just needs to be in water!), he slipped me a small brown bag with two blueberry (blueberry!) muffins inside. Speechless. Such kindness!

Had a low-key night at the backpackers chatting with a very diverse…and interesting… crowd.

Greymouth to Ross

Thursday, November 6, 2014

I decided to start the day by treating myself to a good breakfast at the place I got the coffee yesterday. It was a good decision: poached eggs over kumara potato rostis with salmon and spinach... I thought I took a pic but I guess I didn't... ;)

On my way out, the man at the counter handed me ANOTHER brown bag with muffin inside – this time a carrot raisin muffin with cream cheese frosting. Amazing. Such a small – in his mind I’m sure – gesture, but man, what a difference it made in my morning! I feel so humbled and grateful for kind people like this man.

Rode from Greymouth to Ross today – a 70km ride, the first 15km were along the West Coast Wilderness Trail - beautiful ride!

Yes, it really was this breath-taking in real life!!

It was a cold but semi-sunny day today, so I got a good 70km ride in. Passed through a cute, small town called Hokitika where I spent an hour in the library while the rains passed and my dead phone charged (libraries, as I’ve discovered, have the fastest free Wi-Fi. I will be utilizing these more often!). When I left the rain was gone and I was good to go.

When I arrived to my destination, a tiny village called Ross, I asked a local guy where I could set up my tent. He directed me to the old Empire Hotel. I had read about the wood stove fire and good food at this bar/hotel, so I headed over there. When I walked in I was greeted by three rugged old hairy men at the bar who looked like they were a part of the woodwork there – clearly locals and regulars. Helena told me to pitch my tent across the road and I could use the showers and kitchen next door – and then come on back for the roast they had on that evening.

I did just that. The buffet was complete with roast lamb, roast beef, roast potatoes, veggies, salad, fresh clam chowder soup(!) and whitebait omelets (whitebait is a tiny little fish popular in NZ that the guys told me they fish with nets with small holes in the river nearby. They can sell a kilo for about $60, and in turn, retailers will sell the whitebait for about $120 per kilo. Yeah, it’s a nice little fish!).

It’s a quiet old village with a history rooted in the gold rush days; everyone knows everyone, everyone is super friendly, and everyone who’s lived there has always lived there. I loved this stop!